So I had a plan. And it was a good plan. A plan put together by someone else (Justin) and it was perfect. Part of that plan included surfing which this blog is about. Some of that plan changed and that’s the next blog.
So happy blog – having crossed the border into Mexico and having made my way 60km down the coast I found myself at La Fondo or KM59. Justin had told me about a surf hostel there and I decided to check it out. Hostels are going to become sparse so why not take advantage while I can. Surf Dudes Hostel is run by an English chap called Ian who is accompanied by his daughter and dog – both lovely. It’s a very chilled place with dorms and private rooms and a communal living space. Each evening the guests gather for a meal prepared by Ian and watch TV. It’s nice! Anyway, they also do surf lessons which is something I have wanted to incorporate into my trip so for $15 I thought what the hell and signed up.
I have only tried surfing once and while I never really got the hang of it that time I did get a tremendous sunburn which I had to deal with on a long haul flight back to the UK!!!
This time was better. James, who was also staying in the hostel, was my instructor and I hit the beach at about 7am (no worries of sunburn this time). We did some drills on the beach and then hit the surf. I am pleased to say that on the second wave I was surfing though I have to admit that the actual surfing time was about 3 seconds before I unceremoniously splashed back into the ocean and was consumed by a wave!!! However, I did manage to stand again and I think James was impressed with my no fear attitude to waves. It seemed the bigger the wave and the less time I had to think about it the better the result. I need to work on being quiet as James had trouble differentiating between my screams of joy and potential injury.
There is a massive rush to surfing (even badly) and just sitting on the board with dragonflies and pelicans cruising by is so relaxing. I am fortunate that my route takes me past some of the best surfing sports and I will try and get lessons whenever I can. Who knows I may even return as a gnarly surfer!!!!
Written on my Nokia Lumia 1020